News Articles

Finding a reliable home inspector

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:25:28 +0000

By Rick Pezzino

As the spring real estate market heats up, home inspectors expect to be busy individuals. Of course, not all homebuyers will hire a home inspector, but there are a lot of reasons they should.

“Homeowners cannot afford surprises. Everything may look fine on the surface, but there may be trouble lurking,” says Don Crawford, past president of the National Association of Home Inspectors, Inc. (NAHI). “A qualified home inspector will have the experience and training to provide information that will assist the buyer in making an informed decision.

“Problems that the seller or the Realtor® may not be aware of become the financial responsibility of the buyer if they are not corrected prior to the final sale of the house.”

This raises the question, how do you find a qualified home inspector? In most states, home inspectors are not required to be licensed, however, here are a few credentials you can look for:

If your state does require licensing, check to see if the home inspector you are considering is licensed. If not, don’t just ask -- verify if he or she is a member in good standing of a national nonprofit trade association such as the National Association of Home Inspectors, Inc. (NAHI). These individuals agree to conduct inspections according to the minimum guidelines established by the organization. Membership is also a sign they are serious about their profession.
Check your local Better Business Bureau, Department of Consumer Affairs, and your local municipalities to see if any complaints have been filed against the inspector.
Interview the individual you plan to hire. Find out what his or her background is, can you get references, and does he or she carry Errors & Omissions insurance?
The home inspector should not offer to do any repairs, or recommend anyone for repairs. This is a conflict of interest.

A home inspector will provide you with a written report, which is included in the price for the inspection. He’ll carefully survey the exterior, building foundation, roof, attic, basement, insulation, visible electrical and plumbing, and the heating and cooling system. Two primary concerns are safety-related problems and areas needing significant and costly repairs.

Home inspectors do not do any tests that are destructive to the home, and they don’t have x-ray vision. At some point in time, the home is going to need maintenance and repair, that’s just part of homeownership.

A home becomes the cornerstone of family life. It should be a place to form lasting, pleasant memories – not memories of headaches and disasters!

Richard F. Pezzino is a Certified Home Inspector, a member of the National Association of Home Inspectors, National Radon Safety Board and has U.S.E.P.A. training in Lead Abatement and Lead Risk Assessment. His company, Accu-View Property Inspections, can be reached at 882-2200.

Proper Radon Testing Requires Proper Procedure

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:31:12 +0000

Proper Radon Testing Requires Proper Procedure

Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation where it can become trapped. Radon can also enter your home through well water.

Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with full basements, crawl spaces or slabs. In 1988 the Office of the U.S. Surgeon General issued a warning about radon urging Americans to test their homes and to reduce the radon level when necessary. EPA estimates that about 20,000 lung cancer deaths each year in the U.S. are radon-related. Exposure to radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking.

The EPA has extremely specific guidelines as to how the test should be conducted, from placement of the device to homeowner behaviors during the testing period. Disturbing or interfering with the test device, or with closed-house conditions, may invalidate the test results and is illegal in some states. Radon testing professionals should ask homeowners to sign a non-interference agreement, explaining the testing protocol. The testing process requires patience from home buyers and sellers, but the benefits of knowing the radon levels are safe far outweigh the risks of improper testing and inaccurate results.

According to EPA guidelines, closed-house conditions means keeping all windows closed, keeping doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans or other machines which bring in air from outside. Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system, or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time, may run during the test.

When doing a short-term test, ranging from 2-4 days, it is important to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and during the entire test period. The radon test should be conducted for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours. Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test. You may operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the test, as it only re-circulates interior air.

New York State requires all radon tests to be analyzed by a certified lab for accurate results. For any radon test to be legal, the report containing the results must have the New York State ELAP laboratory ID number clearly indicated. The radon test professional should not read or analyze test results unless he/she is ELAP certified. If an elevated level is found, you should contact a qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level. EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.

You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon measurements. Test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home are not reliable. Proper testing is the only way to find out your home's radon level. For more information on radon and radon testing, go to www.epa.gov/radon.

Richard F. Pezzino is a licensed and insured home inspector, and owner of Accu-View Property Inspections, Inc. He is a Radon Measurement Specialist, and a Member of the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB). Information available at 716-882-2200 or www.AccuviewInspections.com. NYS License #16000005200.

Maintaining Your Furnace - Inspect Your Hot Surface Igniter

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:31:28 +0000

Maintaining Your Furnace - Inspect Your Hot Surface Igniter

Unlike older model gas furnaces that use a standing pilot light to ignite the burners on the furnace, many of today's modern models use an electronic ignition system. This includes a Hot Surface Igniter (HSI), sometimes referred to as a glow plug or glow stick. Electricity passes through the silicon carbide igniter, making it glow red hot. These newer, more efficient models, made in the past 10 years, are replacing the old gas pilot furnace models.

When the thermostat calls for heat, the HSI receives an electrical current which heats its surface. The igniter glows red and then lights the burners in the gas furnace. Over time, the igniter is continually getting red hot and then cooling, creating stress on the element. Because of this, igniters have a 3-5 year life expectancy. They will eventually crack and need to be replaced.

If you suspect that you have a damaged HSI, you will most likely be able to change the part yourself. Like a light bulb, they are a regular replacement item. However, there are several things to consider before tackling this job on your own.

First, visually inspect the HSI for cracks or white spots on the carbide section. Cracks are not necessarily visible. Though the igniter may be cracked, it may still be working, but with a shorter remaining life span. If you see a crack or white spot, the igniter should probably be replaced.

It is important that the correct, original manufacturer's igniter be used in the repair. There are many igniters on the market; however, many do not have the correct voltage or warm-up time as the original design.

HSIs are made of a very brittle material and will break easily. Igniters can be damaged during transit or installation. While working with this fragile component, it is extremely important that you do not bump the carbide section against metal. Take care not to touch the carbide surface because the oils from your hands can permanently damage the element. Use patience and caution throughout the replacement process.

Once the new HSI has been installed, check for functionality. Have the thermostat call for heat. After a few seconds, the igniter should glow red and light the main burners.

It is always a good idea to have your furnace checked regularly, by a qualified service professional, for optimum performance, efficiency and safety.

Richard F. Pezzino is a licensed and insured real estate inspector and owner of Accu-View Property Inspections. He has more than 25 years experience in both residential and commercial real estate. Information available at 716-882-2200 or www.AccuviewInspections.com. NYS License #16000005200.

Update Your Flexible Gas Connector

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:31:50 +0000

Accu-View Property Inspections, Inc.

Helping Clients Make Informed Real Estate Decisions Since 2000.

Update Your Flexible Gas Connector

Gas appliances are connected to the home fuel gas supply lines via a flexible metal gas connector. These flexible connectors are made of corrugated metal tubing. Newer models are made from stainless steel or brass that has been coated with plastic or epoxy. Most older connectors, however, were made from uncoated brass.

Some of these uncoated brass connectors have a serious design flaw. Solder was used to braze, or join the flexible brass tubing to the end pieces. Over time, the brazing can fail, causing a serious gas leak. This could lead to an explosion or fire.

It is very difficult to see whether a flexible connector has been brazed, so don't take any chances. Only a qualified, licensed plumber or contractor should check your connector and replace an uncoated brass connector with a new stainless steel connector or a new plastic coated brass connector. Do not attempt to check the appliance yourself. Moving the appliance, even slightly, can cause the complete failure of one of these older, weakened connectors.

These brazed uncoated brass connectors have not been made since 1976, but many are still in use. Flexible connectors are not meant to last a lifetime. Older units can wear out from too much moving, bending, or from corrosion. The older these connectors get, the greater the possibility of failure. Newer units should be replaced approximately every 10 years.

If you suspect a gas leak you should leave the house immediately and call your gas supplier from a neighbor’s house. Do not use your cell phone inside the house and do not turn on any electrical devices.

Richard F. Pezzino is a licensed and insured home inspector, owner of Accu-View Property Inspections. He has more than 25 years experience in both residential and commercial real estate. Information available at 716-882-2200 or www.AccuviewInspections.com. NYS License #16000005200.

Cleaning Your Dryer Ducts Can Reduce Fire Hazards

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:32:24 +0000

Cleaning Your Dryer Ducts Can Reduce Fire Hazards

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that more than 13,000 fires start in laundry rooms in the United States each year, resulting in 10 deaths and $97 million in property damage annually.

Fires can occur when lint builds up in the dryer or in the exhaust duct. Lint can block the flow of air, causing excessive heat buildup, resulting in a fire in some dryers.

In addition to fires, if a gas clothes dryer is improperly vented or the exhaust duct itself is blocked by lint or debris, carbon monoxide can be forced back into your living space. This creates potentially hazardous conditions including carbon monoxide intrusion and the possibility for exhaust fires.

There are several easy steps you can take to prevent a potentially hazardous event in your home.

First and foremost, clean the lint screen before or after each load, and get rid of any lint inside, behind, and underneath the dryer.

Replace plastic or foil, accordion-type ducting material with rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct. The flexible plastic or foil type duct can more easily trap lint and is more susceptible to kinks or crushing. Plastic transition ducts should be replaced with metal duct, because it is non-flammable.

Once or twice a year, inspect the entire venting system, looking for kinks or clogs in the ductwork. You can do this yourself or hire a qualified service professional.

When running the clothes dryer, be careful not to over dry. Running your dryer too long not only wastes energy but can also damage your clothes. If you notice the drying time is longer, clean the vent system thoroughly to ensure proper airflow.

Always read manufacturers' warnings in use and care manuals that accompany new appliances. Also, warning markings can usually be found on the inside of the dryer's lid and take only minutes to read.

Spending the time to inspect and maintain your clothes dryer will save energy, improve performance, and minimize fire hazards. For more information on this and other safety tips, visit www.cpsc.gov.

Richard F. Pezzino is a licensed and insured real estate inspector and owner of Accu-View Property Inspections. He has more than 25 years experience in both residential and commercial real estate. Information available at 882-2200 or www.AccuviewInspections.com. NYS License #16000005200.

Hiring a Knowledgeable Home Inspector

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:32:41 +0000

Hiring a Knowledgeable Home Inspector With mortgage rates at all time lows, now is a great time to purchase a home. Although we are always looking to save a few dollars, there are some places where you may want to spend a little extra money to receive quality service. When making the largest, most important purchase of your life, it pays to hire a knowledgeable and professional home inspector.

Many new home inspectors try to break into the business by offering free services or low rates. It is not wise to base your decision totally on price. The first place to start is with a referral from your real estate agent, attorney, friends and family. The inspector should give you an unbiased opinion, but should not have any vested interest in the inspection. For example, the inspector should not solicit contracting work on the property being inspected.

The prime concerns of the home inspector are to discover areas that may require a significant investment to renovate or repair. They are also looking for possible health hazards to the occupants of a building. A home inspector should never be an alarmist, but should present a realistic picture of the property. A thorough report from a qualified home inspector is a critical record in the history of your property.

There are certain things to consider when choosing a home inspector. Ask your inspector how long they have been inspecting homes. An inspector with over five years experience inspecting hundreds of homes will have a track record that can be checked before hiring. Ask if this is a full-time professional occupation, or just a part-time, “on-the-side” hobby. Finding a home inspector that is full-time usually equates to more skill and expertise.

Is your home inspector affiliated with any national associations, such as the National Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI)? A proctored exam, strict business guidelines and professional benchmarks are required to be a member of NAHI. The highest level of certification with the NAHI is Certified Real Estate Inspector (CRI). Inspectors holding the CRI designation have completed rigorous standards enhancing their education and proficiency. Some associations only require an on-line exam for certification.

Check the home inspector’s credentials before hiring. Home inspectors do not carry the same insurance. New York State only requires general liability insurance. Many professional inspectors carry Errors and Omissions (E&O) insurance in addition to general liability. E&O insurance is much more costly to the inspection company, but gives their customers added protection in case of an error on the inspection. This extra protection may explain why one company might be slightly more expensive than another. It is extremely important to know who you are hiring, before the home inspection takes place. Good inspectors will not have a problem providing you with information on their background.

Trying to save money by hiring an inspector based solely on price, or worse, waving the home inspection altogether is not recommended. Hiring a knowledgeable and professional home inspector will protect you and your investment in the long run. Richard F. Pezzino, CRI, is a licensed and insured real estate inspector and owner of Accu-View Property Inspections. He has more than 25 years experience in both residential and commercial real estate. Information is available at (716) 882-2200 or www.AccuviewInspections.com. NYS License #16000005200.

Concerns about vermiculite insulation in your attic

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:32:58 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Some houses have vermiculite insulation in the attic. Vermiculite is a mineral that expands into a worm-like, accordion shape when it is heated. The result is a lightweight, fire-resistant, absorbent and odorless material that can be cut into different sizes for different uses.

Vermiculite attic insulation is a pebble-like, pour-in product, usually light brown or gold in color.

Although it seems harmless, there are problems with asbestos contamination of vermiculite, particularly vermiculite that came from a certain mine in Libby, Montana. A natural deposit of asbestos that was also in the mine contaminated this vermiculite. If asbestos is inhaled the fibers become embedded in the lungs and serious lung disease can
result.

Today’s vermiculite is mined from three other U.S. locations and several other countries and it has a very low level of contamination. However, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) have concerns about vermiculite that may have come from the Libby mine so they have established the following recommendations for dealing with vermiculite insulation:

Since you don’t know the origin of the product, assume it may contain asbestos.
Try not to disturb the vermiculite insulation. This may mean you don’t use your attic for storage.
Don’t allow children to play in an attic with open areas of vermiculite.
If you plan to do renovation or remodeling that involves working in the attic, hire professionals.
Never attempt to remove vermiculite yourself. Hire a professional.
Seal any cracks in the ceiling around light fixtures or ceiling fans where vermiculite may pass through.

Common dust masks are not effective against asbestos fibers so if it is necessary to do some work that might disturb your vermiculite insulation; it is really worthwhile to hire professionals.

There isn’t as yet an effective technique for testing to see if there is asbestos in
vermiculite insulation so it’s best to treat your attic as though it were contaminated. If
you have to store boxes or other items in the attic, try to walk on areas that have floor
boards, try to disturb the vermiculite as little as possible and leave the attic as quickly as
you can.

Richard F. Pezzino is a certified housing inspector and the owner of Accu-View
Property Inspections

Don’t be blinded by love when you buy a home

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:33:14 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Buying a home is a lot like getting into a new relationship – you are blinded by love. Unfortunately, if you make a mistake in either one of these areas it can be very costly.

With a relationship, the only thing that helps you see the real person is time. With a house, it’s the housing inspection. Find a good inspector by asking friends or anyone you might know who has recently purchased a home for a referral. Be sure to ask if they were satisfied with the on-site inspection, the final report, and ask if any problems have come up that the inspector didn’t find.

When you’ve scheduled the inspection -- first take off your blinders – and then be sure to attend the inspection. Allow two to three hours for a thorough job. Follow the inspector around the house as he/she works. Be sure to ask questions, remember there is no such thing as a dumb question, especially when you are talking about an investment that is probably well over $100,000.

So, ask questions and listen to the answers and to everything else the inspector tells you. A good inspection should not just cover any flaws in the construction of the house it should also cover preventative maintenance.

This is not a pass/fail test it is a visual inspection of all the major components of your future home. At the end, you will have ask the current homeowner to correct any flaws that you and your inspector see as important. After the work has been done you should return to the house to see if it has been done properly.

After the house site visit you will receive a report from your inspector. Some reports are computer-generated, some are “check list” style, and some include digital photos of the problem areas. It can take a few minutes to go through the report and really look at the issues the inspector discovered.

You’d be surprised at how many of my customers call me later and ask me why I didn’t tell them about a certain problem with the house. I ask them if they’ve read their report. They tell me they lost it. So I look in the report and sure enough, there’s the problem, in writing, and often illustrated with a photo.

You paid for the report – read it and keep it in a safe place so you can refer back to it. And if you have any questions after you read through it, give your inspector a call.

Just like relationships, getting the most out of a housing inspection is a two-way street. You have to put in your share of the work. But in the long run you’ll be a lot happier with the house. And also like relationships -- when you buy a house -- chances are you’re in it for the long run.

Richard F. Pezzino is a certified housing inspector and the owner of Accu-View Property Inspections.

Keeping your cool is easy

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:33:29 +0000

By Richard E. Pezzino

Keeping your cool in the summer time requires a little bit of maintenance to your air conditioning unit – but that little bit of maintenance goes a long way to saving your energy bills and avoiding expensive repairs.

The most important thing you can do is to keep the air filters clean. Check them each month and if you have a disposable filter that’s dirty, replace it. If your filter is permanent, turn the thermostat to the “off” position and take it out of the unit. (It should be easy to do this but if you’re having a problem, you might have to resort to reading the directions that came with the unit.)

Take the filter outside and use your garden hose to spray off the filter on both sides. Use a reasonable amount of pressure, but too much could damage the filter media, so I wouldn’t recommend getting the power washer out. Rinse the filter until the water running off of it is clear. You don’t need to dry the filter completely, just shake it off and reinstall it while it’s still damp, then remember to check it out again next month.

Another simple step is to remember to turn off your central humidifier. Central air conditioners can’t cool or dehumidify properly if the humidifier is still going. Usually your humidistat is right next to your return air plenum on the furnace above the humidifier, or it can be on the wall next to your thermostat.

Turn the humidifier off at the humidistat, but also – close the damper or turn it to the summer position; turn off the water supply to the humidifier; and clean out the humidifier and leave it dry. There are float-type humidifiers that don’t allow you to turn them off 100 percent, but you can manually lift the float and put something under it to hold it up, which will fool the unit into thinking the pan is full, when it is really empty.

The last thing you can do yourself is trim the bushes and shrubbery near your outdoor air conditioning unit so that the air can flow freely around the unit. Remove any grass clippings, leaves and other debris from the outdoor coil, and just check occasionally to make sure nothing has built up that will inhibit the coil from working properly.

If you happen to own an electrostatic air filter, you should recharge it yourself once a year. Clean the filter and then put it into a tub with water, then add one teaspoon of Epson salt and one teaspoon of bleach for every one gallon of water. Soak the filter in this solution for eight hours, then allow it to air dry before you put it back in the unit.

Keeping your cool is a lot easier when your house is a comfortable temperature – and doing simple air conditioner maintenance will ensure you are right in the zone.

Richard Pezzino is a Certified Home Inspector with more than 20 years of experience in residential and commercial properties. He is affiliated with the National Association of Home Inspectors, National Radon Safety Board, Buffalo Niagara Association of Realtors and the National Association of Residential Real Estate Professionals. Visit his web site at: www.accuviewinspections.com.

New regulations for safety affect cost of hot water tanks

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:33:47 +0000

By Richard Pezzino

We all joke about getting into hot water but the truth of the matter is: turn on the shower or run yourself a bath and that’s exactly where we want to be – in hot water! Well, you will find that if you have to replace your hot water tank, or if you’re buying a new one for a new home you might be building, the equipment to generate that hot water is going to cost you about 40 percent to 50 percent more than it would have last year.

The reason for this is safety. Lawmakers now require the manufacturers of gas fired hot water tanks to meet “Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant” or FVIR standards. Prior to this requirement, individuals who store flammable materials or equipment such as lawnmowers, gas cans or painting supplies next to a hot water tank, were taking the chance fumes from the stored objects would get into the combustion chamber of the tank and cause an explosion.

Manufacturers, however, are allowed to sell any “non FVIR” tanks left in stock but built before the regulations took effect (July 1, 2003). The new regulations are being phased in, with 30, 40 and 50 gallon atmospheric vented hot water tanks and combination water heating/space heating models with 14-inch to 18-inch internal tank diameters required to be FVIR this year, same size power-vented models required to be FVIR as of July 1, 2004, and all other gas-fired models with inputs of 75,000 BTU or less required to be FVIR as of July 1, 2005.

I recently attended a training class sponsored by A.O. Smith, a company that manufactures their tanks with a flame arrestor made from Corderite, a fireproof ceramic. This flame arrestor is built into the base of the water heater. It allows combustion air to flow up and distributes it evenly to the burner.

If flammable vapors accidentally get into the combustion chamber and are ignited, the flame arrestor prevents the flames from moving downward toward the gas source and causing an explosion. There is also a thermal cutoff switch which shuts off the main and pilot burner gas flow when there is an increase in temperature in the combustion chamber.

It’s important for homeowners to know that in the A.O. Smith model, this arrestor has a screen called the LDO (Lint, Dust, Oil) screen that needs to be inspected and cleaned either by them or a service person on a regular basis. You can use a stiff brush to clean the screen.

If the screen becomes clogged, the temperatures inside the combustion chamber will increase and the gas flow to the pilot light and burner will automatically shut off. Once the screen has been cleaned and reinstalled – and it must be reinstalled with the arrows on the right and left side facing up to function properly – the pilot light can be reignited and the tank should be good to go.

In all cases after a “flammable vapor ignition incident,” a qualified service technician should inspect the water heater, because the new design is much more complex than the previous one. There are five parts to the combustion chamber that should be checked:

The condition and fit of the inner door and gasket.
The condition and fit of the main burner tube seal.
Condition and fit of the pilot assembly seal.
Sight glass should be in place and not broken or cracked.
The thermocouple and pilot burner tube should run in a straight line through the pilot assembly seal.

Although the FVIR hot water heaters are significantly safer than the old models, they are still not fire proof – only fire resistant. It’s still wise to store anything that might generate flammable fumes away from your hot water tank – otherwise – you could find yourself in hotter water than you want!

Richard F. Pezzino of Accu-View Property Inspections, Inc. is a certified home inspector, and a member of the National Association of Home Inspectors. Accu-View is on the web at www.accuviewinspections.com.

The wrong roof can put the cap on indoor pollution

Mon, 24 May 2021 12:28:02 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Ever wonder why we never heard about indoor pollution or mold contamination 20 or 30 years ago? You may think it’s because these things were not recognized, or didn’t get the media attention they get today – but it’s really because construction has changed so much in the last 50 years.

The houses many of us grew up in were built in the `50s or pre-`50s, with loose-fitting windows and little insulation. The result was we lived in drafty homes – but they did allow moisture to escape. With the advent of the energy-conscious `70s we buttoned up our construction, building well-insulated, weather-tight homes.

But it is not just energy conservation that has had an effect on today’s construction it’s also our lifestyle. Today’s homes have washers and dryers on the second floors, double ovens in kitchens, and increased entertaining and working at home. The typical family generates 2.5 gallons of moisture each day, and that moisture has to find a way to escape from the house.

If new homes are not correctly constructed with adequate ventilation, moisture-related problems are sure to arise. These factors should be accommodated early in the design phase of a house. Homes that are not ventilated properly can have problems ranging from poor indoor air quality to – one of Buffalo’s favorites – ice dams and leaky roofs.

The attic is key to good ventilation and a dry, healthy home. Warm air rises and moisture condenses and collects in the attic, plus temperatures there are typically far more extreme than those in other areas of the home. The exterior membrane of the attic has to protect the rest of the home from wind, rain, snow and ice coming in, yet it has to allow inside moisture to get out.

When heat collects in a poorly ventilated or insulated attic, it combines with the sun’s warmth to melt snow on the roof – even though temperatures may be freezing outside.

The melted snow then freezes again when it runs down to the gutters and soffits. The frozen water backs up under the shingles and behind the fascia board resulting in damage to exterior and interior walls. This moisture is what causes the mold, mildew and wood rot that results in unhealthy homes.

Attics built with the right systems such as ridge vents with external baffles, soffit vents, insulation and vapor barriers can handle moisture, resulting in a comfortable home that manages air flow and gives a healthy environment.

The slope of the roof is a critical factor in determining how efficiently moisture and snow will run off of it. Flat roofs – any roof with a slope of less than 2:12 -- are more prone to leaks and deterioration. In Buffalo, it’s advisable to change a flat roof to one that is sloped to allow for natural drainage.

Hip roofs are very popular these days, but require special design attention to ensure they function well. There should be a short ridge vent – about 35 to 40 percent of the venting -- and soffit vents on all sides. Power vents with humidistat and theremostat controls located at the upper portion of the roof, combined with adequate venting at the soffits will be helpful.

Unusual styles such as an “L” or “T” shaped roof, or even a cone or octagonal shape, call for vents across both the long and short ridges, plus, all attic areas should be open to each other. If there’s a difference in ridge heights, the vents should be placed at the highest ridge. Vents at lower levels may plug with snow, negating the effectiveness of the whole ridge-soffit vent configuration.

We don’t have to go back to the drafty designs of the `50s to stay healthy, but we do need to design attic spaces and roofs to accommodate our new construction- and life- styles.

Paint is like sunscreen for your house – use the right SPF

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:34:32 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Just as we don’t leave our skin exposed to sunlight and water for any length of time, the wood on our homes needs to be protected. And just as we apply suntan lotion “by the numbers,” we have to use the right paint combinations to protect our wood.

In as little as three to four weeks, exposed wood will deteriorate from the effects of the ultraviolet rays in sunlight. And of course, water takes its toll as well. Painting the exterior of your house is a huge project, so you want to do it right the first time – no sense in having to do it again next year.

When you are building a house, wood siding should be pre-primed on all surfaces before it even gets to the job site. Then, as the pieces are cut to fit on site, the raw edges should be sealed with primer as the siding is installed. Some primers will form a soaplike film after exposure to weather that can keep the top coat from properly adhering, so the top coat should be applied within two weeks. If too much time goes by, you may have to wash the siding before you paint.

Painting is a fair-weather job. It has to be done while the weather is dry and temperatures are above 50ºF. If pre-primed siding is used during winter, it shouldn’t be top-coated until the temperatures rise.

The durability of paint is determined by the ratio of resin (the material that binds the paint to the building) to pigment (the source of color). The more resin in the mix, the better the particles of pigment stick to the wood surface. Since pigment is less expensive than resin, low-cost paints generally have more pigment, while expensive paints have more resin.

High-pigment paints will cover well, but they don’t weather well and soon you’ll be bringing out your paintbrushes again. The glossiness of paint is a sign of its resin content and durability. The higher the gloss, the more resin and the longer the paint job will last.

Ideally, the paint on your home sheds water but is vapor permeable (allows it to breathe), is resistant to sunlight, has good adhesion and stretches with the expansion and contraction of the wood. Different woods call for different types of paint. When the wood is dry and stable, a premium acrylic latex primer and two acrylic latex top coats will do the job.

However, if your wood releases water-soluble extracts like cedar or redwood do, you’re better off to go with an oil-based prime coat and a latex top coat. This won’t breathe as well as the straight latex combination, but it will provide the best adhesion and stain blocking.

Wood stains don’t stand up as well as paints, so if your house is stained, you’ll have to re-coat it more frequently. Solid body stains are actually thin paints and shouldn’t be used at all – unless you enjoy painting a lot.

There’s some controversy over decks these days because typically the treated woods used to build decks contain arsenic, a substance that has been found to be a health hazard. Since decks are horizontal, they really take a beating from rain and snow. Decks need a coating that is vapor permeable and repels water. Stains will help with protection from sunlight yet let the wood dry fairly quickly. But they are just like suntan lotion – they have to be regularly applied. Never use paint on a deck – it holds the moisture in which in turn rots the wood.

So, if you’re waiting `til fall to get that painting done, don’t leave it until the temperatures fall too low – and make sure you use the right paint for the job.

Since water and electricity don’t mix – we have GFCIs

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:34:49 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Before the days of the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), a friend of mine was in the bathtub when her then five year-old daughter stood their plugged-in, freestanding ceramic heater on the edge of the tub. The mother just about died of a heart attack -- she didn’t have to wait for the heater to fall into the tub and electrocute her!

Today, the heater would have been plugged into a wall receptacle with a GFCI, because they are required in bathrooms, and although she might have received a shock, she wouldn’t have had to worry about being electrocuted to death. She might still have had the heart attack – who knows?

So, there’s a very good reason for GFCIs, and there’s just as good a reason to test them to make sure they are working properly. GFCIs are designed to detect ground faults or stray current. They continually monitor the amount of current going to the load and compare it to what is coming back. If some electrons are missing (because, for instance, they are running through your body to the ground) and the current coming back is not equal to that going out, the GFCI will trip the circuit.

In compliance with UL standards, the GFCI has to open the circuit within 1/30 of a second, with the amount of imbalance to cause the trip set at four- to six-milliamps (thousands of an amp). The theory is that the average person (our bather, for example) can tolerate four to six milliamps of current for 1/30 of a second before her heart goes into fibrillation. Fibrillation means the heart goes out of sync, which can result in death.

If your body isn’t grounded, to the GFCI you won’t appear to be anything more than a working load, so it won’t open the circuit and you will probably die.

There are two types of GFCIs, a circuit breaker GFCI located in the service panel of your circuit breakers, and a receptacle GFCI, installed at the point of use. The latter can be reset without leaving the room. Generally, for indoor outlets the receptacle GFCI is best, and outdoors the circuit breaker format is better because the receptacles have been proven to have a short life span outside.

GFCIs are required in kitchens, within a six-foot straight-line distance from the kitchen sink; for all receptacles in bathrooms and garages (with a few exceptions); outdoors if they are readily accessible and within six feet six inches of grade level; and in unfinished basements and crawlspaces that are at or below ground level. The exceptions are garage receptacles placed on ceilings for garage door openers, or one serving a plugin appliance occupying a dedicated space such as a freezer. Laundry circuits, which have 230-volt outlets, and permanently installed sump pumps are also exempt.

There are test buttons on GFCIs, which should be used to test the device when it is installed. They should also be tested over time with three-prong plug-in testers that are specifically designed for testing GFCIs. These are available at most electrical supply houses and place a .0068-amp current imbalance on the line to trip the GFCI. You should not test a GFCI by shorting across the hot to neutral slots in the receptacle – this isn’t a test of a GFCI, and it may cause damage.

These plug-in testers can also be used to test a GFCI that has several receptacles on its load side. First test the actual GFCI receptacle or circuit breaker, then test the most distant receptacle working of the load side. The GFCI should trip when you push the button on the tester.

As a housing inspector, I test all the GFCIs in a home as part of my standard inspection. Although even if they are all working, I still don’t recommend sitting heaters or other electric appliances on the edge of a bathtub – unless, of course, you are trying to get rid of the person in the tub!

Getting Your Home Ready for the Home Inspection

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:35:04 +0000

Getting Your Home Ready for the Home Inspection

It’s a lot of work getting a house ready for sale. Then, before you know it, you have an offer and you need to prepare for the buyer’s property inspection. Don’t waste your time doing things that aren’t necessary. Below is a checklist of the things you really need to take care of before the home inspector knocks on your door.

The most important tip is to make sure all the utilities turned on - including water, electric, and gas. The heating and electrical systems must be checked as part of the inspection. Next, don’t make cheap repairs. It tends to raise the concerns of inspectors and buyers.

Easy outdoor preparations:

If you have flowerbeds next to the foundation, move all grade or mulch about six inches away from the siding, and trim back any bushes, trees and roots. Nothing should touch the siding, roof or chimney.
Clean your gutters – and if there are any spots on the roof that collect pine needles or leaves, clean those too.
Make sure all water is draining away from the house (downspouts, sump pump).
Clean out your basement entry drains.
Any exposed exterior wood should be painted. Deteriorated caulking around doors, windows, trim or the chimney should be replaced.
If your asphalt driveway is cracking – seal it.
Point any masonry chimney caps and install a metal flue cap if you don’t already have one.

Easy indoor preparations:

Make sure your heating and air conditioning filter is clean and clean dirty air returns.
If you have any brick or block, make sure you point any missing mortar, and if you have masonry walls in the basement, seal them.
Test all your smoke detectors.
Update attic ventilation if necessary.
Check that bathroom vents are working properly, and they are vented outdoors, not into the attic.
Have a professional clean the chimney, fireplace or woodstove and give the prospective buyer a copy of the cleaning record.
Make sure all doors and windows are in working condition and replace any cracked or broken glass. If windows are below grade, install window wells and covers.
Caulk around any plumbing fixtures that may have leaks – and make sure your plumbing, including the sump pump is all functioning properly.
Replace burned out light bulbs and make sure you have functional GFCI electric receptacles near all water sources.
Ensure there is a proper vapor barrier in crawlspaces and that the crawlspace is dry.
Have clear access to attic, crawlspace, the heating system and garage. Get rid of paints, solvents, or gasoline you may have stored.

By preparing for the home inspection ahead of time, and following these guidelines, you make the inspection easier on the inspector, and yourself, in the long run.

Richard F. Pezzino is a licensed and insured real estate inspector and owner of Accu-View Property Inspections, Inc. He has more than 25 years experience in both residential and commercial real estate. Information available at 716-882-2200 or www.AccuviewInspections.com. NYS License #16000005200.

Property inspections should be unbiased evaluations

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:35:21 +0000

Buffalo, NY – As we all know, the purchase of a home is typically the largest purchase a person makes during his or her lifetime. There’s a lot of things to consider beyond the physical attributes of the property – developing a relationship with a Realtor®, researching mortgage rates and products, enlisting an attorney, and, once you have chosen a property, having the home or commercial property inspected by a qualified inspector.

Realtors recognize the value in including a property inspection as part of the deal, and value a true and unbiased opinion from the home inspector for their clients. Too often, before property inspections became popular, when something went wrong with the physical plant of a building, whether it was a home or commercial property, the Realtor was the one who took the blame.

Additionally, a home inspection can help dispel the fears of prospective buyers. There are any number of problems buyers may think are tough to overcome, that are relatively easy and inexpensive to repair, and that certainly should not keep you from purchasing your dream home. Your home inspector should be experienced enough in construction techniques and home repairs to be able to suggest cost effective methods for repairs you may think are going to be expensive.

There are certain things to consider, however, when you choose a home inspector. You want to get an opinion that is totally unbiased. The inspector should not have any vested interest in the inspection – he or she should not, for example, solicit contracting work on the properties inspected.

You want an inspector who provides you with a detailed report on all aspects of the property: the exterior envelope including windows, doors and roof; the interior including fireplaces, stairways and ventilation; the general structure including plumbing, heating and air conditioning, and electrical; and any environmental hazards that may exist. You should, if at all possible, accompany your inspector on the tour and ask as many questions as you like. Remember, the only “dumb” question is the question that isn’t asked.

Your home inspector should be affiliated with such organizations as the National Association of Home Inspectors, or the American Society of Home Inspectors. It’s also helpful if he or she has trained in the areas of radon measurement, lead risk assessment and abatement, and wood destroying insects. Before hiring a home inspector, ask for credentials, references and work experience. It’s not wise to base your decision totally on price and good inspectors will not have a problem providing you with information on their background.

Property inspections are not “pass/fail” opinions, they are professional evaluations of construction, designed to help buyers make an informed decision about their purchase. The prime concerns of the home inspector are to discover areas that may require a significant investment to renovate or repair, and areas that may pose a health hazard to the occupants of a building. Don’t ask your home inspector for an appraisal or legal advice. Your Realtor or attorney is the professional to consult in these respective areas.

A home inspector should never, however, be an alarmist. He or she should present a realistic picture of the property. A thorough report from a qualified home inspector is a critical record in the history of your most important purchase.

Termites will eat you out of house and home

Mon, 24 May 2021 12:27:10 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Termites are social little creatures (meaning that they live in colonies), who are closely related to cockroaches and who enjoy making a meal out of the wooden parts of buildings, utility poles, and fence posts. They like warm, moist places that won’t dry out their delicate little bodies.

And they are considerate. Your siding won’t look at all as though it has been eaten away, there will be a nice shell of wood covering the termite tubes, plus, they don’t leave behind sawdust like other wood boring insects. Of course, the structure of your home will be weakened -- the termites don’t really care about that – but you should. You can simply tap areas of wood that you think are infested, and if they sound hollow, you might want to see if you can strip off a layer, which will expose the tubes.

We don’t have a lot of termite infestation in Western New York, but we do have some. In fact, the only state that doesn’t have termites is Alaska and in Chicago, which has a climate close to Buffalo’s, termites infest one out of every 16 buildings. Each year termites cause more damage than fire and earth quakes.

Once these critters find a warm, moist place that protects them from the elements, their colonies can have a pretty long lifespan. The best thing to do is – don’t give them a place to start.

You can stop termites in their tracks by being careful in planning and constructing buildings. Any wood debris at a building site should be removed before construction starts. Termites love to hide in roots, stumps and even spreader sticks and grade stakes, so all lumber scraps should also be removed from the building site after construction has been completed.

Termites can travel through cracks that are as little as 1/32 inch wide, so poured concrete foundations are the best choice. Hollow-block or brick foundations should be capped with a minimum of four inches of poured concrete.

Outside finished grades should be at or below the level of soil in a crawl space, and exterior siding should be at least six inches above outside grade and should not extend more than two inches below the top of the foundation walls. Crawl spaces should be 18 inches above ground, with girders a minimum of 12 inches above ground. And don’t stack firewood in or against your home.

Exterior woodwork such as porches and steps should be treated with preservatives. Pentachlorophenol, creosote or inorganic arsenicals may be required, although there is now some controversy about the safety of inorganic arsenicals.

March and April are the months to watch out for termites – those are generally the months that they “swarm.” When the atmospheric conditions are right, it’s warm out, and there’s moisture and light for them, you may see the little guys emerging from their colony located in some soil or wood. Or, if they don’t actually show themselves, they will shed their wings and are likely to leave these on the floor beneath an infested area.

If you have these unwanted houseguests, they’ve got to be evicted. Termites can be eliminated either by applying an insecticide to kill them, or making the wood resistant to termite infestation. Treating the wood poisons their food source, but sometimes they’ll bypass the treated section by building tubes over them to reach the untreated wood.

They can also be treated with termiticides, which can be injected into the termite galleries, or applied by using pressure to distribute the insecticide through the pores of the wood. There are different kinds of termites though, so you’ve got to target your pest treatment to the insect.

Native subterranean termites typically must have direct contact with the soil. The objective in eliminating these guys is to create a barrier of treated wood one- to two-feet wide between the soil and the base of the structure. Buildings with basements or crawl spaces will need a band of treated wood that goes completely around the perimeter, including sills, plates, floor joists and areas next to openings for plumbing and electric.

Drywood termites hitch rides into our area on pieces of furniture and wicker. They are hard to detect, as all they leave behind are fecal pellets that look like grains of sand or pepper. If you look at these droppings under magnification, however, you’ll see that they are either six-sided or grooved. Drywood termites can be controlled by spot treatment if they haven’t spread to other parts of the structure. If they have spread, you may have to have your entire house fumigated under a tent.

Since termites cannot always be eliminated, they can only be controlled, there’s a new technology for prevention called “bait stakes.” This is a do-it-yourself system where you place the stake outside your home and it attracts, then kills the termites who eat the bait and carry it back to the colony. The number of stakes needed depends on the size of your home.

An inspection for wood destroying insects is required in order to obtain a VA mortgage. This means that, in addition to checking for termites, the inspector has to look for carpenter ants, carpenter bees and powder post beetles. Home inspectors must by certified by the New York State Department of Energy Conservation to be qualified to perform these inspections.

Having an inspection for wood eating insects is always a good investment when you are buying a new home because -- as social as termites are with each other – you don’t want them being sociable with you!

Headaches and nausea can mean the `silent killer’ has invaded your home

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:35:54 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Each year when the weather gets cold enough to turn on our furnaces, we hear news about a family that has been overcome by carbon monoxide, or CO -- a by-product of combustion. Typically, the family is experiencing headaches, nausea and fatigue, and sometimes even unconsciousness, but since this gas – often called the “silent killer” -- is odorless and colorless, they are not even aware of its presence in their home.

Nearly 200 people in the United States die each year from CO exposure, and thousands of others become ill or seek medical attention. After being inhaled, CO is absorbed into the bloodstream, taking the place of oxygen in blood cells and forming Carboxyhemoglobin. In the body, tissues with the highest oxygen needs are the most seriously affected by CO. These include the brain, heart and other large muscles.

Americans spend approximately 90 percent of their time indoors, and now that our homes are typically weather-tight and exhaust fans are used more frequently, there can be an increased negative pressure in the home, causing CO to be captured in the house.

This problem is caused by improperly vented or malfunctioning combustion appliances and often, the furnace is the culprit. Other appliances such as space heaters, water heaters, stoves and clothes dryers can be at fault. The best defense is a good offense – install UL standard 2034 or IAS 696 CO detectors on every level of your home.

The next step is to give your furnace a check-up each fall. Furnaces are vented to chimneys, and if the chimney is not capped off, debris can fall into it and block gases from escaping. The same thing can happen with your fireplace chimney. There has to be enough of an updraft to pull toxic CO up and out of the home.

Water heaters also should be vented into a chimney through a tube that goes between the chimney and the heater. This exhaust must be properly lined up and the exhaust pipe kept clear to ensure all toxic gases are vented out of the building. Other sources of CO include clothes dryers, which tend to shift during operation resulting in the disconnection of the exhaust hose; space heaters, which should be vented to the outside unless they are electric; and stoves. It is not required that stoves be vented, however, if a stoves or cooktops are used to heat the environment, they can produce an excess quantity of CO.

There are a few common sense rules in preventing CO contamination of your home. Don’t use a charcoal grill in the house, don’t operated any gas-powered equipment such as a lawnmower or leaf blower indoors, and don’t warm your car up in a closed garage. Have your chimneys cleaned regularly and check all vent/chimney connections. If you see rust, scale, soot on burners or in a heat exchanger, in a vent or an appliance clean out, or moisture on the inside of windows – you could have a CO leak.

It’s best to maintain your home and prevent problems before they start, but if you haven’t, it’s usually the weakest member of the household who suffers first – much like the canaries that used to alert miners to the presence of poisonous gases in underground mines. Infants and children, pregnant women, people with angina and the elderly will be the first affected.

Lower concentrations such as below 400 parts per thousand (PPM) of CO will cause frontal headaches lasting from one to two hours, and even low levels can become life threatening after three hours. A level of 800 PPM will cause nausea and convulsions, and death after two hours, 1600 PPM will cause nausea after 20 minutes and death within an hour, and 12,800 PPM can cause death within one to three minutes, so this is a highly dangerous gas.

Don’t wait for your household’s “canary” to identify a problem, prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Condensation can be a problem with new windows

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:36:12 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

So you had all of your old, drafty windows replaced to save on your energy bills and all of a sudden – there’s moisture forming on the glass. What happened? Aren’t the new windows any good?

The truth is, they are good – they are good at eliminating the air exchange between the outdoors and the indoors – which is why you are no longer losing heated or cooled air. But they have changed the indoor environment to one that has more water in the air. And when indoor air is too moist, molds and mildews are encouraged to grow – and some molds can be hazardous to your health.

There are many factors contributing to moisture in the air inside your house and now that moisture has no way of escaping. New homes or new construction will show condensation because building materials contain moisture. When the heat has been on for awhile during the winter, this moisture will dry out and windows will stop collecting condensation.

Our humid Buffalo summers contribute to condensation too. During the summer your house will absorb moisture, but again, this does dry out after a few weeks with the furnace on.

In this area we also often have damp cellars, some even with dirt floors. If this is the case, make sure you have a sump pump to carry water away from the basement floor and make sure your eaves and downspouts are operational so rainwater is carried away from the house and the cellar walls. At this time of the year that may involve cleaning the gutters, which collect leaves and pine needles throughout the fall and winter.

Yet another weather-related issue we experience here – sudden drops in temperature – will cause temporary condensation problems as cold air causes the moisture in the air to collect on the windows.

If you have concerns about the condensation in your house, there are a few simple steps you can take to reduce it. First, ventilate. Make sure the bathrooms and your clothes dryer and gas burners are ventilated properly. Then run your exhaust fans longer and more frequently. Air out the house for a few minutes each day to allow the moist air to escape. Open your fireplace damper to let the moist air out. You may have needed a humidifier in the house before the new windows were installed, but chances are you don’t need it now so make sure it’s turned completely off.

During the winter, you may not want to turn your furnace down too much at night, since the drop in temperature can cause the moisture to condense out of the air. You’ll want to keep your heat registers free from obstructions (including deflectors), and keep blinds open and plants away from heat radiators. Run the fan on a forced air heating system continuously to create convection on the window surface. If the moisture problem continues, you can put a thin plastic film over the windows when they are dry, but try this on one window to see if it works before you go all out.

New, tight windows are still a good idea. They minimize cold drafts, control the air quality, make building materials last longer and are more energy efficient – all factors that make it worthwhile to deal with a little extra condensation.

Like everything else – start with a good foundation

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:36:29 +0000

The image of a “good foundation” has come to mean more than just the base of a house or a building. Building on anything – your education, your relationship, or your house – means beginning with a good foundation. And each one can be just as problematic as the other!

In the United States today, building foundations tend to be overbuilt, which means they rarely collapse. But foundations have to do more than just hold the building up. They have to keep groundwater, soil gas, water vapor and heat out in the summer. In winter, they have to keep heat in. But ground water is the biggest problem.

Regardless of the type of foundation you build, the ground should always slope away from it so that water can run off. Gutters and downspouts should also carry runoff away from the foundation.

Concrete, cement block and wood building materials are all hygroscopic, they readily absorb water and allow it to move through them. It would be simple if you could just coat these materials with a waterproof membrane, but eventually cracks will occur, the waterproofing will deteriorate and moisture will begin to get into the home.

The best way to keep moisture out is a good drainage system. This involves installing a material next to the foundation that allows water to freely drain through it. This can be sand, gravel, drainage boards or exterior foundation insulations with drainage properties. At the bottom of the draining material is a conduit to collect and drain the water away from the foundation, either to a sump pump or daylight at a lower elevation.

A subslab drainage pad to break the capillary action of the ground moisture will restrict water vapor. Polyethylene is generally placed on top of the drainage pad, then the concrete foundation is poured over the polyethylene sheeting. This acts as a vapor barrier that blocks the migration of water vapor from the ground to the concrete.

Unfortunately, water vapor is a persistent problem that is almost impossible to eliminate completely. As long as the moisture isn’t transported to sensitive materials, it won’t be an issue. The solution is in the insulting materials you use. Permeable or semipermeable materials such as extruded polystyrene that are not sensitive to moisture are a good choice.

Better yet, placing insulation on the exterior of the grade beam or stem wall (depending on the climate), or on the interior or exterior of a basement, will help this problem, plus give the added benefit of keeping heat in during winter and out during summer.

Soil gases are also a major concern, since we build houses on more and more sites that were previously treated with chemicals of all sorts, from pesticides to petroleum to PCBs. The well-known radon is only one of many soil gases we need to keep out of our homes.

The solution to this problem is placing a granular drainage pad under the concrete foundation slab that becomes a sub-slab ventilation system when a vent pipe that extends above the roofline of the house is added. Usually this will be self-ventilating just from the passive stack effect, but an exhaust fan can be added if necessary.

If you have a basement, you’ll want to consider what it’s future use will be when you’re in the construction phase. If the basement is going to be used as living space, you may later want to consider laying carpet over the slab. Carpet shouldn’t be installed over an uninsulated concrete basement slab because moisture will condense on the slab and the carpet will become a haven for mold and other biological contaminants. Impermeable paints are not a good idea either because the concrete will not be able to absorb any of the moisture that condenses on it due to the fact the slab will always be cooler than the air above it.

The best way to make a basement conducive to a wide range of uses is to insulate under the slab during construction.

As with anything else – an education, a relationship or your home – a good foundation is essential, and it’s a lot more complicated than you might think!

It’s not `beware’ but `be aware’ when it comes to asbestos!

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:36:47 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

Generally, people are aware that asbestos can be an environmental hazard in buildings and homes. But the important words here are “can be.” Asbestos is used in almost 3,600 building applications without causing any danger to occupants. It only becomes dangerous when its tiny fibers are released into the air, a state that is called, “friable.”

Asbestos is a mineral and is mined just like iron, lead and copper. It’s different from other minerals, however, in that when it is crushed it breaks up into fine fibers – fibers that are approximately 1,200 times finer than a human hair. These fibers can be inhaled into the lungs, and they are so tiny they stay in the air for long periods of time.

Asbestos has been used in such products as floor tiles, linoleum backing, ceiling panels, exterior stuccos, roofing felts, heat registers and pipe insulation. Asbestos doesn’t become dangerous unless one of these construction materials has been damaged to the extent that asbestos fibers have become airborne, or the asbestos containing material (ACM) itself is not stable. An example of an unstable ACM would be the fluffy, sprayapplied fireproofing material. This is in a “friable” state.

In one situation, a tenant found a small tear in some pipe insulation in the basement of the building and moved out of his second floor apartment because he was convinced this created a huge hazard. First, with asbestos, human risk depends on exposure and since he was on the second floor, there was minimal chance of his inhaling asbestos fibers in his apartment. Second, tears in pipe insulation are relatively simple to fix.

The Environmental Protection Agency does not advise either ripping asbestos out in a panic – or ignoring the problem of friable asbestos. When damaged asbestos containing materials, can be crumbled by hand, the material has become dangerous, but as long as surfaces are stable and sealed or can be repaired, the product is safe. If a building containing ACMs is going to be demolished, then the asbestos should be removed prior to demolition to prevent asbestos particles from becoming airborne.

If you see a material that looks like asbestos and crumbles to the touch, you should probably have it tested to see if there is any danger to you or the inhabitants of the building. Plumbers and contractors can often tell by looking at the product if it is asbestos or not, but it’s safest to collect a sample and have it analyzed by a laboratory that does polarized light microscopy (PLM).

If insulation containing asbestos is firm and the surface covering is tight, homeowners can make their own repairs to small holes and tears with commercial products designed for this purpose. If, however, you have holes more than an inch in diameter within four linear feet of insulation, you’ll need a professional. Professional asbestos contractors have equipment such as HEPA vacuums, negative pressure air machines, approved respirators, and disposable clothing. They will also take air samples to ensure the area is clear of asbestos fibers after they have finished the work.

Large asbestos removal projects are regulated by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). These regulations ensure workers are protected from asbestos exposure. This work has to be reported to the appropriate federal, state and local agencies and must be done properly. Improper removal can cause more problems than it solves.

If you are dealing with pipe, furnace or boiler insulation material that moves at the touch of a hand or has a cover that is no longer firm and tight, the insulation is probably too deteriorated to be repaired and may have to be removed and replaced by a professional.

Asbestos is a useful ingredient that adds insulation and durability to a number of building products so it will always be a part of our environment – and it’s perfectly safe as long as those products are maintained in good condition – this means don’t ignore damaged asbestos containing materials. Don’t, however, let fear of asbestos scare you out of a home or apartment you love.

Eliminating radon is relatively easy and inexpensive

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:37:04 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino

At the risk of sounding alarmist, radon -- like the lung cancer it can cause -- is a sinister danger, lurking almost everywhere. It is most dangerous when it becomes trapped in our homes, because that is where we spend the majority of our time. Yet, it is relatively inexpensive and simple to eliminate radon in your house. Additionally, by radon-proofing a home, the average homeowner will save about $65 a year in energy costs.

It’s easiest to prevent radon contamination when you are either building a new home or adding new construction to an older one. The materials and labor costs for preventing radon gas from escaping into a new home can run as little as $350 to $500, where it may cost between $800 to $2,500 to retrofit an existing home. If you are building a new house or adding on to an existing one – thinking about radon during the construction phase can save you between 128 percent and 400 percent.

Radon gas will always be produced in the soil under your home by the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water. You can prevent radon from being trapped in your home by doing the following: Five steps to a Radon-free environment

The first step is to place a gas permeable layer beneath your foundation, concrete slab or flooring system to allow the gas to move freely underneath the house. Usually, a four-inch layer of clean gravel is adequate.
Second, a non-permeable layer, usually made of plastic sheeting, should be placed on top of the gas permeable layer and under the slab. This helps prevent the gas from getting into the home. If you have a crawlspace, the sheeting can be placed over the crawlspace floor.
Next, all of the openings in the concrete foundation floor must be sealed to minimize areas for the gas to come into the home.
Then, a three- or four-inch gas-tight or PVC pipe should be run from the gas permeable layer though the house to the roof. This carries the radon and other soil gases safely into the air above the house.
In some cases, you may need a fan to move the gases up the vent pipe. For this reason, it’s a good idea to install a junction box for electricity at the vent pipe.

Popularity of prevention is growing

Radon prevention is becoming more popular, although there are still a number of homes built today without it. According to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Research Center, 18.8 percent of the approximately 1,126,000 single-family homes built during 1998 incorporated radon-reducing features.

Nearly 212,000 homes were built to prevent radon infiltration, but over 900,000 did not have radon preventive features. Since 1990, the cumulative total of homes built with radon-reducing features is over 1.6 million, according to the NAHB Research Center.

In high-radon risk areas (termed Zone 1 by the NAHB), 43.3 percent of new homes built in 1998 incorporated features to reduce danger from the gas. This means the cumulative total of homes built with radon prevention techniques since 1990 in this high-risk area is just over one million.

So, if you are buying an existing home, you should have your home inspector check to see if radon-reduction construction has been used, but there’s a good chance it has not. If not, you’ll definitely want to test for radon at the lowest level of the home that can be occupied, and possibly consider the cost of retrofitting the home in your purchase offer.

Radon in the home is a leading cause of cancer – and it’s preventable

Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:38:35 +0000

By Richard F. Pezzino, CRI, RMS

I am willing to bet you’ve seen a number of articles on the dangers of radon gas and how to test your home for radon. I’m also willing to bet the majority of you have never tested for this invisible, odorless gas. Right?

Did you know that radon causes between 15,000 and 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year in the United States, according to the National Academy of Sciences? That 12 percent of all lung cancer deaths are linked to radon? That the Surgeon General warns radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S. today, and if you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is particularly high?

Yet, radon is relatively inexpensive and easy to test for. And, the cost of preventing radon leakage in an existing home is between $800 and $2,500, and in new construction that cost is as low as $350 to $500 -- a small price to pay to save your family from the heartbreak of lung cancer.

Radon is everywhere

Radon is an invisible, odorless, tasteless gas resulting from the natural radioactive breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water. It’s found all over the United States, and 2 can be present in any type of building – homes, offices and schools. But because most people spend the majority of their time at home, it is our homes that offer us the greatest risk for radon exposure.

Nearly one out of every 15 homes in the U.S. is estimated to have an elevated radon level -- above 4 pCi/L -- including old and new construction, well sealed or drafty construction and homes with or without basements. Today’s energy efficient homes can actually trap radon, because the air exchange is minimized.

Two homes right next door to each other and on the same street can have completely different levels of radon, so homeowners cannot rely on tested levels “in the neighborhood” to know that their home is safe. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends homes be retested every two years, even if there’s a low level of radon reported on the first test. If you are planning to sell, it’s a good idea to test for radon before you put your house on the market – and always test at the lowest level of the home that is suitable for occupancy. You may not use your basement, for example, but a new buyer may want to renovate it to a play room for children.

How to test

There are two kinds of radon tests, passive devices and active devices. Passive tests include charcoal canisters, alpha-tract detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices and electret ion chamber detectors. These are relatively inexpensive and simple to use, however, you must follow the protocols to the letter to ensure an accurate result. Certified home inspectors are trained in the use of the canisters and typically get as good, if not better, results with the passive devices when compared with active devices. Passive 3 devices can become out-dated, however, so it’s essential to make sure you get fresh stock when you purchase them.

Active devices require power to function. These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working level monitors. As their name suggests, active devices continuously monitor the amount of radon and its decay products in the air. Many of them produce a report showing unusual changes in the radon level during the test period, but you’ll need a qualified tester (this is usually part of a home inspector’s credentials) to explain the report to you.

Conditions such as high humidity can influence test results, so some active devices are designed to detect interference or offer anti-interference features. These may cost a little more, but they generally ensure a more reliable result. We’ll discuss how to reduce radon levels in new and older homes in a future article.